Gilles Dumangin’s cuvées are cleaner, fresher, more precise and more focused than ever, reflecting the man’s fanatical attention to detail. As a result, they effortlessly handle lower dosage than they have had in the past. This is the 2010 base vintage incarnation (November 2013 disgorgement) of his bargain Brut 17, showcasing its pinot-led style beautifully in a core of primary cherry and pink grapefruit character, clean precision of lemon zest and an overlay of lemon blossom. Well-integrated dosage (8g/L) and fine mineral texture confirm one of the great champagne buys under $50. Currently $45 at Cracka and First Choice.