Ata Rangi winemaker Helen Masters says that vine age is the biggest influence in their wines as it determines where the vines sit in the soil structure, with older vines sending their roots deeper into the Martinborough gravel. The philosophy with Crimson is a younger vine selection, while still looking to express the character of Martinborough. This is the key to this wine, making it the only New Zealand pinot noir at its price point that really expresses its variety and its region articulately. Fragrant red cherry, strawberry, pink pepper and rose hip of excellent persistence are underscored by a beautifully gravelly tannin structure. $27 at Wine Lovers Warehouse.