This refreshingly lithe blend from Langhorne Creek is quite the antithesis of Broad-side. In a region that built its name on solid, rustic reds of at times imposing proportions, this bargain Bleasdale makes a beautifully low alcohol statement that unlocks wonderful fragrance, lively freshness and crunchy, spicy dark berry fruits. A pristine vintage has yielded […]
Far and away the standout of a new tier in the Petaluma range, this is an intricately crafted and great value chardonnay from one of South Australia’s most important pioneers of the variety. It’s clearly picked up some tricks from its older siblings, elegantly contrasting delicately fragrant lemon blossom and grapefruit flavours with the subtle […]
Cullen vineyard has established a triumphant benchmark for Australian SBS, articulately expressing a unique and pronounced mineral structure. With an almost two-thirds lead of sauvignon blanc, matured for six months in French oak (two-thirds new), one would expect fruit power and heavy structure. Remarkably, it is quite the contrary, backward, floral, understated, crunchy and fine. […]
The Champenois say the most distinguishing feature of champagne is its ability to retain finesse with age. Achieving this in Australia is perhaps the holy grail of sparkling winemaking, and Jansz has nailed it here. At almost a decade of age, its Late Disgorged has spent eight years on lees (double that of the regular […]
From a blend originating in the late 1920s, this is an impressive statement of aged complexity. Such is the stature and maturity of Chambers that it’s fair to consider each of its fortifieds a tier higher than their classification, making this more like a rare in its layers of rancio complexity, roast nuts, bitter dark […]
From Yalumba’s 1889 planted Nursery Block, this was previously labelled Tricentenary Grenache. 2008 was characterised by the heatwave of 5-17 March, but harvested on 5 March, it captures wonderfully intense and ripe strawberry and raspberry fruit, without becoming too ripe or jammy. Instead, this is an alluringly savoury and textural grenache with lifted violet notes, […]
Spy Valley’s Envoy has marked out a benchmark for Marlborough pinot noir for no fewer than seven vintages, but its Outpost vineyard has only been bottled separately a few times, and such is its rarity that I’ve never seen it outside NZ. It projects a remarkably elegant rose hip and understated exotic spice demeanour for […]
Bill Downie’s three pinots are more distinctive than ever, and presented blind it wasn’t hard to pick them on their bouquets alone. From vines now fifteen years of age, his Mornington is often my favourite of the trilogy, with an ethereal bouquet of rose petals, brambles and dried flowers. The palate is immaculately poised, with […]
Who would have imagined that one of Kym Teusner’s most captivating mataros would emerge from the cool, wet 2011 season? This is a culmination of all the things I like most about this vintage. It’s impeccably fragrant on the bouquet and palate, laced with rose hip, rhubarb, tobacco, lively red berry fruits and rich, lingering […]
Bill Downie reckons it isn’t trendy to make pinot from the Yarra Valley floor at the moment, but he considers the fruit of the densely planted Denton vineyard in Yarra Glen to be outstanding. It’s the only vineyard in the region on granite, which he says accounts for a flinty mineral line through the palate. […]