St Hallett Old Block Shiraz

In these days of instant gratification we are at times guilty of underestimating the great, long-ageing cellaring specials on release. We excuse top Bordeaux, Burgundy and Barolo and we celebrate their most enduring vintages. The Barossa deserves the same respect, and Old Block won’t show its full colours for at least a decade. It’s still […]

Serge Mathieu Tradition Pur Pinot Blanc de Noirs Brut

There is an elegant, light-footed restraint and refreshing lemon zest purity to this cuvée, while projecting the full depth and breadth of pinot noir from the Aube district in the south of Champagne in characters of blueberry and strawberry hull. It’s lively and vibrant, with primary fruit focus accented with a hint of brioche, well-integrated […]

Lilbert Fils Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut

The Lilbert family have been champagne growers since 1746 and today Georges Lilbert produces just 30 000 bottles of blanc de blancs from 3.5 hectares spread across 15 low-yielding plots, largely in the grand crus of Chouilly, Oiry and, most of all, Cramant. These are high-strung, structured wines that are matured for at least five […]

Marguet Père & Fils Extra Brut

A beautifully even assemblage of yellow and red fruits with subtle charcuterie notes of barrel fermentation. The biscuity, ginger complexity and creamy, buttery, silky mouthfeel of long lees age lingers on the finish, softening the tension of the season to make for a gentle and immediately approachable take on 2008. It looked tense and edgy […]

Marguet Père & Fils Ambonaicus Grand Cru Rosé

Rosé represents a considerable one-third of production for Marguet, and this is his fourth vintage release. He blends using black glasses as colour is not his interest, though 7% red wine here lends an accurate medium salmon hue. Tangy pink grapefruit, strawberry hull and lemon tussle with savoury boiled sausage notes of barrel fermentation. A […]

Ployez-Jacquemart Extra Quality Brut

The entry wine of the house is an elegant and compelling apéritif of lively and focused lemon and white peach fruit, with the subtle support of brioche and a fine backbone of chalk mineral structure, culminating in fine acid line, understated persistence and a soft, creamy bead. $85 from Shop for Wine.

Henri Giraud Blanc de Blancs

A beautifully expressive blanc de blancs that contrasts the intensity and affable character of Montagne de Reims chardonnay with a refined lift that I have not previously seen in this cuvee. Fragrant lemon and pear notes sit over a core of starfruit and spice, stirred by a touch of oak barrel fermentation, without interrupting excellent […]

Taittinger Brut Millesime

True to the crystalline purity and lemon juice freshness of this outstanding season, this is a focused and energetic release for Taittinger, evenly synergising the lemon juice and strawberry fruit of this enduring vintage with the toasted brioche complexity of six years ageing on yeast lees. This rounds out the incisive acid line of 2008, […]