For the miniscule yields inherent to botrytis, a bargain dessert wine that hasn’t been concocted by freezing or reverse osmosis in the winery is nigh-on unheard of, and this is why Vat 5 is nothing short of remarkable. Baby brother to the iconic Noble One, it’s matured in small portion in oak and spends a surprising number of years maturing prior to release. The result is, not surprisingly, oozing with complexity of honey, marmalade, toffee and toast. There’s a note of onion-like reductive complexity in the background, and a textural, phenolic mouthfeel, neatly balanced by sweetness on a long finish. $10 at Aussie Wines, No Frills Wine, Wine List Australia and Nillumbik Cellars (2008).