Leeuwin has worked like a demon in its vineyards for more than a decade now, achieving riper cabernet tannins, emphasising aromatics more and structure less. The effect has now filtered down to its Prelude second label, and the result is quite compelling, quite outclassing its price point. It’s beautifully medium-bodied and backward at four years of age, with varietal definition of bright cabernet fruit, tweaked with 12% merlot, carrying great depth and drive. Signature capsicum, tobacco, leaf and redcurrant hallmarks are propelled by fine-grained, graphite-like tannin structure and regional highlights of high cocoa dark chocolate. $24 at The Pink Drinks.