A blend of six vineyards, 50% Avize, 25% Cramant and 25% Le Mesnil, selected for their ripeness, which is pushed as far as possible to emphasise creaminess. This negates the need for both chaptalisation and malolactic fermentation. This style works better in 2008 than any vintage I can remember. This vintage is razor blade; a rousing celebration of energy and precision; impeccable, deeply mineral, breathtakingly elegant in its refined, effortless poise. It dances on layers of mineral chalk, with focused berre bosche pear, apple and lemon. Texturally beautiful, markedly mineral in its salty, chalky texture. In time, depth of very subtle biscuity complexity begins to emerge. Wonderful acid drive and seamless persistence guarantee it will be very long lived. $130 at Wine Emporium.