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Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz

In the style of the stonking 2010 Bin 28, though without the same gloss and polish, this is a wine layered with black fruits of all kinds, mixed spice and liquorice, even a note of pot pourri. It has density and presence, yet agility and poise, thanks to layers of firm, powdery tannins, well balanced acidity and excellent persistence. Slightly woolly tannin structure detracts a little at this exceedingly youthful stage, but we’re not used to seeing Bin 28 so early, so give it time. This year, a blend of McLaren Vale, Wrattonbully, Langhorne Creek, Barossa Valley, Padthaway and Upper Adelaide.