The best rows from the oldest blocks on Xanadu’s Wallcliffe property have created a wine that embodies the persona of the most enduring cabernets in exhibiting impeccable balance and alluring refinement even in their extreme youth. This is benchmark Margaret River cabernet sauvignon of textbook character and refined grace, delivering enticing complexity and elegant allure. Its fragrant perfume of violets, rose petals, redcurrants and cedar lingers long through an exceptionally refined finish, underlined by bright acidity and well-poised, graphite-fine tannins. $70 at Wine Emporium.