Hervé Savès calls Bouzy “the Chambertin of Champagne,” and to temper its strength and dominance he adds a touch of chardonnay to this blend. Such is the presence and precision of pinot noir that if you close your eyes you could be drinking a pretty rosé. Open them and there’s no hint of blush to its medium yellow-straw hue. It’s alive with rose petals, strawberries and red cherries with a feeling of authenticity and rusticity injected by a touch of phenolic presence, providing grip to the finish. This is cleverly offset with a carefully-tuned lick of dosage. One of the best champagnes on the shelves for $50 this year.