I have only been alive for a small chapter of Vat 9s illustrious history (spanning fifty years this year), but I have not tasted a young vintage as flattering as 2009. From the oldest and finest blocks of the Ashman’s vineyard, matured in large French oak casks (building texture rather than overt structure or oak flavour), this is a flatteringly soft, textural and approachable style in the true spirit of Hunter shiraz. There are nuances of pepper to its vibrant blackberry, plum and black cherry fruit, with the classic, taut acidity that defines 2009. A wine of brilliant persistence and understated concentration that is approachable now and will live twenty years. $71 direct from Tyrrell’s.