2010 DM makes a vital statement: its phenomenal predecessor was no fluke. At thirty-nine years of age and privileged to fanatical biodynamic care, the Cullen vineyard is in a remarkable place indeed. At a tantalising 13.0% alcohol, elegance meets the strictest definition. Utterly enticing, profoundly pure, effortlessly seamless and earth-shakingly long-lived. Margaret River graphite, high cocoa dark chocolate texture and gravelly tannins support pin-point exact violet and blackcurrant fruit. For the record, 77% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 6% petit verdot, 4% malbec and 3% cabernet franc – but such is its seamless coherence, you’d never know it was a blend. Diana would be proud. $90 at Wine List Australia.