Everyone, it seems, has a squat old bottle of Para forgotten somewhere in the depths of a cupboard, but this wine bears little resemblance to those 21-year-old releases. Seppeltsfield is a treasure trove of special old fortified parcels, and this one has just been released after a magnificent thirty years in barrel, to the tune of just 2000 bottles. The result is an exceedingly affordable way to take home a transcendental snapshot of the grand history of this estate. It’s viscous, luscious and powerful, displaying a wonderful balance of deep, rich layers of maturity, reflecting roast nuts, savoury spice and a hint of furniture wax, against the honeyed sweetness of raisins, figs and dried fruits, all of which linger with monumental persistence.