Yabby Lake Chardonnay is on another plane to the rest of the Mornington and no wine yet released from the outstanding 2010 vintage is its rival (the Kooyong single vineyards are yet to come). This is a truly crafted chardonnay of immense texture, profound persistence and mineral focus, carrying finely textured mouthfeel long through the finish. Lees complexity is exactingly gauged, setting flint and struck match over sensationally taut, finely structured lemon and grapefruit. With both vineyard maturity (the important twelve year milestone in 2010) and Tom Carson’s winemaking wizardry coming of age, this represents one of the greatest releases for Yabby Lake to date, setting a benchmark for the region. $37 at Canterbury Wines and Dan Murphy’s.