Adoring fans of one of the most elegantly graceful rosé champagnes on earth will immediately recognise a change of pace in the new vintage release. On paper, the recipe is identical, but 2004 was a very different season to 2002 and 2000 in Champagne. Before you even lift the glass you will note a fuller salmon/crimson hue. The generosity of the season makes this the most vinous Pol rosé for some years, edging all the way into the black cherry fruit spectrum, supported by bucket loads of fresh strawberries, orange zest, mixed spice and the subtle beginnings of toasty bottle development. The exuberance of its pinot lead is clear for all to behold, yet immaculately constrained within the pristine house style that is Pol Roger. $95 at The Glass.