I’ve had the privilege of assessing the beautifully defined champagnes of the Fourny brothers multiple times in Australia and France over the past two years, and I am delighted to report that these wines are on a slow but unmistakable trajectory of ascent. The latest rendition of Cuvée R is built around the splendid 2008 vintage, infusing it with more tension and finesse than ever. Magnificent fresh lemons, grapefruit and apple erupt in an explosion of purity and definition, settling into a finish of salty mineral personality that defines the great vineyards of the north or Vertus, right alongside the hallowed turf of Le Mesnil sur Oger itself. $68 at Prince Wine Stores.