It would be right to think of every Chambers fortified as a level above its official classification, which puts its Rares completely off the scale. Bill Chambers didn’t keep accurate records, so the average age of this wine is unknown, but the origins of the blend date back to the 1890s. Such is its intensity of hue that it barely has a rim at all. It’s very much in the tertiary spectrum, with green olives, cedar, bitter dark chocolate and roast nuts, though impeccably balanced with young fruit. Such is its integration that despite monumental intensity, nothing dominates, with firm acidity seamlessly integrated with honeyed sweetness. Magnificent. $215 at Cellarit.