Mike Press has been working like a demon to refine pinot noir in his single vineyard at Lobethal, high in the Adelaide Hills. His first release entirely from the 777 clone, it goes without saying that the magnificent 2012 vintage has given birth to his finest rendition yet. I challenge you to find a more alluringly refined pinot noir anywhere for $11 (direct). He intended to put the price up this year but he forgot, so get in quick. There is a gentle elegance to this wine, quite unlike anything from this vineyard to date, capturing pinot noir’s perfumed finesse in enticing characters of rose bud, pink pepper, raspberry and strawberry. The lively acidity of this cool elevation energises the palate, making for a tangy morello cherry finish. A mix of American and French oak adds a biscuity/nutty note to the end, which will benefit from a short time to integrate and soften. Grafted on to merlot vines just four years ago, there’s clearly great potential for 777 on this site, and additional vine maturity could yield even more exciting things. Watch this place.