The wizards at Peter Lehmann have again conjured the Eden Valley riesling of the vintage. They tell me they’re always concerned if Wigan performs well in the Barossa wine show in its youth, because its engineered to display its best to coincide with its release in four or five years time. They must have been more than a little nervous when this wine took out the trophy for the best current vintage riesling last week. It’s a worthy winner, more giving at this age than usual, true to the mood and intensity of the vintage. Wigan 2013 is a triumph of the season and a revelation in effortlessness of concentration, structure and persistence like no other in this drought vintage. A wine of inimitable and distinctive character of lime zest, anise, granny smith apple and freshly sliced fennel, with a beautifully poised, seamless acid line and refreshingly low alcohol. $25 at Grays Online (2008).