BdB 2004 makes a monumental declaration: from Billecart’s proud position in the heart of pinot territory, this house is masterful in its command of the finest chardonnay crus. Shy and reserved a year before release, it takes some hours to unravel and reveal its stately magnificence. At almost a decade of age, its exacting, youthful freshness of lemon and white peach is breathtakingly elegant, yet innately intense. Subtle oak structure gently coaxes out notes of almond, nougat and subtle toasty complexity, building creamy texture and accenting dazzling chalk minerality. Grand longevity. $220 at No Frills, Aussie Wines and Wine List Australia.