After the very restrained 2001, Ed Carr describes 2002 as a very challenging vintage to get his head around, with a lot of unevenness in fruit ripeness. A testimony to his talent, there’s no suggestion of this a decade on. Instead, a true Australian prestige cuvée of remarkable persistence, great complexity and precise focus. Primary grapefruit, brown lime and white peach fruit remain amidst lovely struck flint reductive complexity and ever-rising depth of roast nut toastiness. It’s tight and focused and creamy all at once, with dosage sitting neatly within its fruit. $123 at Dan Murphy’s.