Some are saying 2013 was the best vintage in Martinborough in a decade. Ata Rangi winemaker Helen Masters describes it as pretty much a perfect vintage, with dramatic cool nights to retain acidity at the end of the season, creating a tension between concentration and length. This permitted her the scope to ferment with 30% of whole bunches, double the highest level of recent years. It holds this gracefully, creating a beautifully fragrant and pure red cherry and berry fruits style with wonderfully pretty violets, rose hip and elegantly integrated spice. Impeccably fine, silky tannin structure draws out a finish of brilliant line and length. A Martinborough pinot noir of true grand cru calibre, and one of the greatest Ata Rangis in the 35 year history of this estate. $68 at Dan Murphy’s.