The evidence for the stature of 2011 at Cape Mentelle is mounting, and this wine perfectly straddles the fence between generous fruit expression and enduring, graphite-like tannin texture. From the outset, it’s definitive Margaret River cabernet (with some merlot and dashes of cabernet franc and petit verdot). A bouquet of coffee bean, high cocoa dark chocolate and ground granite overlays a core of crunchy blackcurrants and generous cassis fruit. In classic Rob Mann manner, this is an unashamedly tannin-driven wine, delivering a particularly honed structure that promises to see out a decade. $22 at No Frills, Aussie Wines and Wine List Australia.