Rob Mann suggest that the dry, early and warmer than average 2011 vintage produced a fuller in flavour and more concentrated sauvignon blanc semillon blend, though to me the finished result is testimony to the resilience of these old vines on the Cape Mentelle estate in riding out the subtle variations of the seasons. It’s crunchy and zesty and at the same time concentrated and creamy, with wonderful harmony and enticing allure. Fermentation in French oak barrels, 35% new, brings a hazelnut cream complexity to its blackcurrant bud, lemon butter and lifted lemon grass vivacity. It’s very long and beautifully poised, with zesty acidity and crunchy lemon and lime notes meshing seamlessly with toasty complexity. An impressive Wallcliffe. $36 at Cellar Link.