As if a culmination of every complexing element of every other fortified wine that has gone before it, each assembled intricately into a seamless whole, Chambers takes Rutherglen muscat to a new pinnacle. Its Grand Muscat is of rare calibre by any comparison, and its Rare is in another league altogether. The average age is unknown, but the blend dates back to the 1890s, and just seventy half-bottles are released each year. After that, the Chambers simply announce that it’s sold out. It’s as viscous as engine oil, with profound depth of maturity spanning aromas of black olives, roast nuts and pitch. The palate melds citrus, fig, chocolate, raisins and figs, without for a moment becoming over the top. Most incredible of all is that in the midst of this maelstrom, it projects a lifted rose perfume and an enticing butterscotch-like smoothness that never seems to end. Join the queue and buy direct.