With origins in its blend back to the 1890s, Chambers Grand has such depth of black hue and such engine oil-like viscosity that you’d swear it was Rare before you’d even lifted the glass. “Well, this is the problem!” exclaims maker Stephen Chambers, whose wines have never fit the Rutherglen classification neatly. This is a Rare by any comparison. Its maturity is profound, with waves of roast nuts, burnt toffee, olives and cedar. It’s firm and dry, with bracing acidity tempered by beautifully balanced sweetness and a persistence that hovers until kingdom come. Best price direct.