Blanc des Millénaires was the oldest currently available champagne in the last edition of this Guide, and — remarkably — it’s still available. More incredibly, it’s transcended to another plane of silken magnificence at a full 18 years of glorious age. The greatest soils of the Côte des Blancs rumble in precise, finely chalky mineral tones, energising a dizzyingly primary energy of lemon and grapefruit. Its voice has deepened as it’s grown through adolescence, textured with nougat and spice, wisps of smoke and nuances of hearth. The finish is an epic revelation, undeviating and undiminished for minutes. No one would have ever expected 1995 to blossom at this age, and such is its monumental poise and seamless completeness, who knows what it might have in store in the decades to come? Sit back and enjoy the spectacle with the one you love, in the largest glasses you can procure. $310 at Cracka and Prince Wine Store.