Insightful Cloudy Bay winemaker Nick Lane admits that Marlborough has fruit in spades, so his challenge is to create tension in this wine. He’s nailed it here more confidently than I remember in Pelorus, uniting the layered, biscuity complexity of a little old barrel fermentation, up to two years on lees and a deep resource of reserve wines, with a core of lemon, pear and golden delicious apple fruit and a taut tail of tense acidity. A low dosage of 7.5g/L of sweetness is perfectly gauged to keep the finish refreshing. Pelorus is now one of New Zealand’s best value sparklings. $24 at Jim’s Cellars.