A new star is about to rise in the Clover Hill firmament, and it’s brighter and more dazzling than any before it. After eight years on lees and a period under a reliable DIAM, there is an enduring stamina on display here that’s rarely seen outside Champagne itself. The fine, precise drive of cool Tasmanian chardonnay is the theme, bringing just the right level of grapefruit tang to an exceptionally long finish. Glorious age has built an impressive assemblage of dried nectarine, preserved lemon, mixed spice, biscuits, roast almonds, toast, even an inviting waft of smouldering hearth. It’s silky, integrated and impeccable. It hasn’t landed yet, but when it does, you’re the first to know.