De Bortoli’s legendary Reserve Chardonnay has received a makeover to emphasise its single vineyard qualifications (which it’s always enjoyed, but we all tended to forget). This is the company’s oldest chardonnay plot, in theory not the best site for this variety, but with fruit that always comes up “head and shoulders above everything else,” according to Steve Webber. The bouquet presents enticing funky gunpowder, struck match and hazelnut notes, introducing a beautifully generous palate of exceedingly long line, evolving across the palate in slow motion as it surges toward a taut and concentrated acid finish. A chardonnay of impressive intensity and power in the midst of great restraint and focus, with a long life before it. Best price direct.