Based in the thundering Côte des Blancs grand cru of Cramant, Diebolt-Vallois’ grandeur is declared first and foremost in its blanc de blancs cuvées. There is, in fact, no Cramant fruit in this blend. It’s built instead around the elegant premier cru of Cuis, the powerful grand cru of Cramant, and Épernay vineyards very close to Chouilly. This release unites 2009 and 2010 in an elegant and focused style of grapefruit, lemon and pink lady apple. It’s creamy and soft and at the same time characteristic of its terroirs, displaying deep chalk mineral texture. It’s seamless, integrated, classy and great value. $74 at Andrew Guard.