The philosophy here is an assemblage of the fruits of the first pressings of the best parcels across many years. The roll-call of vintages is mind-blowing, not only in that it averages 12 years of age on release, but that it plunders the greatest seasons of two decades, a line-up that must be unparalleled in all of Champagne, except perhaps in Krug itself, at three times the price. Its deep, layered complexity matches the recipe: generous stone fruits, figs, honey, toast, roast nuts and mixed spice of all kinds. For all of its vast intensity and full-bodied proportions, it maintains absolute control and balance, making way for fine-grained, pronounced, salty minerality to draw the finish out long and fine. The harmony on show in this melody is a masterpiece of Rodez’s talent as a composer.