It’s as if the 2012 season has amplified the mineral expression in Felton Road, infusing this riesling with a deep-set mineral backbone that provides textural definition, direction and drive. Outside the hallowed Grand Crus of Germany and Alsace, it’s a rare thing for a sweet riesling to be so profoundly scaffolded around its mineral structure, defining its style ahead of its extroverted perfume and succulent fruit profile. This is a particularly spicy Felton, laced with pepper, kaffir lime zest and granny smith apple peel. Its sweetness provides a rounded appeal to a very long and clean finish. Brilliant. $32 at Cracka.