At 20 years of age, Felton’s Block 3 pinot vines have burst out of their teens with a wine that may rank as the greatest to emerge from this estate yet. In structure, shape, consummately controlled focus and sheer endurance it has no equal. The bouquet is layered with black pepper, clove spice, crushed rock and wisps of pipesmoke, complex, alluring, restrained, fragrant and deeply exotic. The palate is a revelation, powerfully textural, silkily structured and brimming with magnificent depth and crunchy definition of black fruits and pepper of incredible persistence. Pronounced tannins are firm, grippy and yet mineral and fine, promising great longevity. $106 at WineSeek