Cliff Royle is tweaking the finer nuances of his wines with each passing season, and took the opportunity in the pristine season of 2012 to play with different yeasts, more solids in the ferment and oak fermentation of just ten percent of the semillon component, in order to improve the textural complexity of this blend. The result is quite magnificent, with sauvignon blanc (almost three-quarters of the total) leading the charge with its lively Gardenia fragrance and its green pepper and granny smith apple crunch. The palate is beautifully honed, with passionfruit and crunchy citrus over a fine, textural backbone and lively acid drive. It’s very long, impeccably controlled and sensational value at $18 at Wine List Australia.