Fonseca upholds 2011 as its best vintage since 1963. My memory doesn’t go back that far, but there’s no doubting the sheer class of this vintage port of remarkable purity, effortless grace and wonderful balance between acidity, structure and fruit. It’s amazing from the outset, with a full, vibrant purple hue heralding a bouquet of crystal clear purity of blackcurrants, plums, dark chocolate, anise, Christmas spice and very high quality brandy spirit. The palate has precise focus, with great refinement in the midst of deep concentration, outstanding persistence and very fine, textural and mineral tannins. $74 Edinburgh Cellars.