Stephen George must have exercised Jedi self control to hold back for a full decade the signature blend of the Clare Valley, from one of the most legendary vineyards of the region, sourced primarily from the “newer” Wendouree plantings of 1911. Such a pedigree promises great things, but even this does nothing to prepare you for the youthful vibrancy that this wine emanates from every pore. At a full ten years of age, almost to the day, it still has a perfume of violets, and cabernet’s classic signature of redcurrants and capsicum. There’s Clare mint and leaf in spades, and a slowly building bottle complexity of roast capsicum. Wendouree’s telltale, firm, finely structured, mineral tannins hold forth, and will continue to do so for at least five years yet. An effortless wine of medium body and low alcohol. For all it represents, it’s ridiculously underpriced. $28 at The Vine Press.