The magnificent generosity of fully mature fruit from the village of Cumières is something to behold in the bright and energetic 2008 season, drawing out the inimitable sea-salt mineral personality of the village with breathtaking clarity. Rich layers of brioche, honey, pear and nutmeg of barrel fermentation and maturation open into a wonderland abounding in red cherry and white peach fruit. It pulls into a beautifully controlled and focused finish of remarkable persistence and medium-term longevity, a rousing celebration of the dazzling minerality of Cumières. $150 at Eurocentric.