In contrast to Steve Lubiana’s two rieslings made in different ways from the same fruit, it’s the fruit sources that distinguish Nick Glaetzer’s Tasmanian rieslings. The gold dot on the bottle denotes what he considers to be better parcels of fruit, here 40% Tamar Valley and 60% Coal River Valley, with a total production of just 300 dozen. A few hours of skin contact and five months on lees for both wines make for an excitingly textural style, with phenolic structure and acidity melding seamlessly to build a linear and harmonious mouth feel around star fruit, red apple and grapefruit flavours. Glaetzer is not reluctant to leave some pressings in the ferment to build substance, flavour and texture, carefully tweaked with a subtle 2-3g/L of sweetness. Best price direct.