Haunting reflections of Ashton Hills’ 2010 Reserve Pinot echo in this wine, but it was only in a later conversation with Jeffrey Grosset that I discovered why: the core of this fruit is sourced from Ashton Hills’ back fence. There is no finer place for this distinguished variety anywhere yet planted in SA. This cool, lofty vineyard is the oldest planted pinot in the Hills (celebrating its thirtieth birthday this year). Exacting precision and breathtaking beauty make this one of the finest vintages for Grosset pinot yet. It’s immaculately perfumed, with every detail of cherry blossom, rose petal, red cherry, mixed spice, dried flowers, anise and clove carrying from bouquet to long finish, lifted by tart morello cherry acidity and structured with fine, mineral, textural tannins. $57 at Cellar d’Or.