On the outer realms of champagne concentration, this is a celebration of the voluptuous curves of Aÿ pinot noir (predominantly), in all of its luscious, juicy richness. Plums, figs, red cherries, golden fruit cake, ginger cake, honey and grilled pineapple, even a hint of sweet pipesmoke of bottle age are all here, carrying with outstanding presence and persistence, full and rich yet with the chalk mineral stamp of the village to keep the finish refreshing and lively. An outstanding release for Giraud, fit for winter main courses. Drink soon as it has the propensity to oxidise.