Ethereal, graceful and commanding, 2010 will go down as one of the great vintages of Hill of Grace. An exquisite bouquet of classic Hill of Grace personality is laced with delightful exotic spice, blueberry pie, black cherry and milk chocolate. The palate is at once calm and harmoniously self-assured, with the inimitable stamp of these graceful old vines in silky, velvety tannin mouth feel, impeccably contrasted with bitter dark chocolate grip. There is an intensity and a presence to this vintage, at once confident and at the same time relaxed and self-assured. The finish swells in a Burgundian uprising of concentration, in shape and sensitivity more reminiscent of Grand Cru Burgundy than of Barossa shiraz. $620 at North Sydney Cellars.