Everything Franco D’Anna crafts is made with single vineyard precision, but his 1er Yarra Valley flagships receive his undivided affection. 1.3kg of fruit per vine, treated to an exactingly gauged touch of stalks in the ferment, produces a wine of perfumed refinement and elegant restraint like Hoddles Creek has never seen. This is pinot noir of true beauty, with an air of rose petal perfume, laced with gentle red cherry and redcurrant fruit, brushed with brambles, dried herbs, cloves and nutmeg. Finely structured, textural, almost peppery tannins point toward greatness in five or ten years. $40 direct.