A graceful triumph for a warm season, and an outstanding Abercrombie that makes its mark not because it is a blockbuster, but quite the contrary, a classic, medium-bodied Western Australian cabernet of intricate refinement. A blend of Mount Barker and Margaret River, there’s loads of complexity wrapped into its folds, with tobacco, cedar, coffee bean, dark chocolate and tomato bush all taking their place around a dense core of blackcurrant fruit. The palate is focused, scaffolded, impeccably defined and intricately structured, with crunchy black fruits of elegant refinement uniting with dark chocolate and tobacco oak in a streamlined frame of medium-bodied agility and well-engineered space. Tannins are ultra-fine, polished, lingering very long and promising a magnificent future. $77 at Discount Wines (2010), $83 at Hunt For Wine (2011).