Jansz winemaker Natalie Fryar is the most sensitive creator of sparkling rosé I know outside the hallowed halls of Champagne itself. She embarked on the rosé trail a decade ago and spent the first three years thinking about how she’d do it, settling on a method that’s more than unusual and yet remarkably successful. While most obtain colour from skin contact or red wine blending pre-bottle ageing, Jansz rosé only receives its colour as a liqueur of pinot noir red wine at the time of disgorgement, before it leaves the cellar. Natalie describes herself as, “A real snob about rosé colour – I can’t stand hot pink!” The result is more precise control of colour and structure, and fresher red fruit character. More refined with each vintage, 2009 is my favourite yet, with its delightful character of rose petal fragrance and delicate red cherry and pomegranate flavour. Fine, mineral, chalky texture draws long through a finish of well-integrated acidity and dosage. Elegantly crafted and impeccably assembled, this is one of Australia’s greatest sparkling rosés. $46 direct.