My respect for the Jansz vineyard derives purely from years of tasting its wines, but my understanding of this site only came when I had the chance to join the pickers for a day during harvest this year. I was little help – I probably ate more than I picked. Every nuance of magnificence in the wine can be tasted in the grapes in the vineyard. This should have come as no surprise, yet in a wine style with more stages of production than any other, which won’t see the light of day until four or five years from now, this is nothing short of remarkable. 2010 represents another iteration to confirm Australia’s finest rosé. This is a complex style that unites the elegant watermelon, strawberry hull and guava of fresh Tasmanian pinot noir with the savoury depth and texture of 100% old barrel fermentation. The accord is handled with Natalie Fryar’s exacting precision, creating a rosé that is complex and multifaceted yet at every moment upholding a graceful elegance and focused assuredness. Acidity rides long, even and lively through a finely mineral-accented finish. For the technocrats, 100% Jansz vineyard pinot noir matured for 9 months entirely in French oak barrels, liqueured after 3 years on lees with 100% pinot noir and 9.1g/L residual sugar. $45 at Wine Box Warehouse.