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Leeuwin Estate Art Series Margaret River Chardonnay

Art Series sits at the bigger end of Margaret River’s chardonnay power set, unashamedly proclaiming grand fruit presence within a robust fram of 100% new French oak. It has done so with an admirable measure of finesse in recent years, though I feared the warmer 2011 vintage might trouble this style. To the contrary, sniper-like precision in picking early has captured the magnitude of this label with greater clarity of acid line and elegant focus than ever. Introducing one of the great vintages for LEASMRC. Constant oak trials across 23 coopers and some 900 new barrels a year have made for impeccable oak integration, maintaining the purity of grapefruit zest, white peach blossom and succulent fig, overlaid with wonderful hints of struck flint and gunpowder. Epic persistence, laser-focused acidity and outstanding drive. $80 at WineStar.