Leeuwin uses a dense canopy to shelter the fruit of its finest southern Margaret River sauvignon vines, so as to highlight fragrant lift and retain natural acidity. One-third fermentation in used barrels with lees stirring does nothing to interrupt the focused purity of its fruit. Restrained lime zest, cut grass and gooseberry are driven by a tight acid line and impeccable focus. A cool start to the season emphasises blackcurrant bud notes, without giving the impression of greenness. A sauvignon of excellent length, line and finely structured mouth feel. $27 at Corkscrew Cellars (2012). 2013 just released.