The Lilbert family have been champagne growers since 1746 and today Georges Lilbert produces just 30 000 bottles of blanc de blancs from 3.5 hectares spread across 15 low-yielding plots, largely in the grand crus of Chouilly, Oiry and, most of all, Cramant. These are high-strung, structured wines that are matured for at least five years before release and appreciate much longer to show at their best. True to the tension of Lilbert, this is a taut and honed blanc de blancs of crunchy lemon zest fruit, firm, fine structure and youthful grip. Value for money in ageworthy grand cru blanc de blancs. $67 at Ross Duke Wine Company.