The 2008 vintage snaps high-tensile acidity and chalk mineral texture from black-and-white into vivid high-definition 3D. Every element delicately placed, seamlessly connected and supporting the greater whole, like a masterpiece of cinematography in the hands of the most fastidious director. Prepare for a breathtaking flight over fields of red roses, orchards of tangy white cherries, endless plains of anise and perfect rows of strawberries. It pulls into a whiteknuckle vertical ascent of intricately silky malic acidity and textured mineral chalk of lively poise and elegant focus. Lécaillon upholds that concentration is almost as important as acidity for longevity in champagne, and since 2007 a focus on lowering yields, decreasing phenolics and naturally sweet pinot noir have been the key to retaining freshness. He likens 2008 with 2002, though without its slight overripe concentration, and with a tension akin to 1996. Roederer’s most riveting episode of the current season, certain to keep you on the edge of your seat. $99 at Winecave.